Barf and Lord's Seat


Swan House was Swan Hotel 12:52 - Swan House that used to be Swan Hotel   This afternoon walk started at 12:45 on Saturday, 1st October from the car park at Powterhow Wood adjacent to the old Swan Hotel at Powter How and just along the road from Thornthwaite.

Swan House, as it is now known, stands opposite Beckstones Gill, where a footpath climbs steeply beside the beck. A notable feature on this walk is the "Bishop of Barf", a white painted stone marking the spot where, according to local legend, the Bishop of Derry was killed falling from his horse in 1783, after drunkenly betting he could ride up the hill. The stone was whitewashed each year by staff at the nearby Swan Hotel, until the Hotel was converted to apartments. The whitewashing is now carried out by members of Keswick Mountain Rescue.


Bishop rock from the footpath 13:02 Bishop rock as seen from the footpath   Footpath climbs steeply 13:20 Footpath climbs steeply


Approach to the rock face 13:31 Looking back at the approach to the rock face   I noted at least two changes on this occasion.

The Bishop seems to have lost his head. The oddly shaped rock used to be taller and the top of it did look like a head. That part of the rock has gone.

The rock face, that was such a feature of this walk, has effectively gone. Wainwright described the rock face and its short traverse in his book. Although slightly daunting, I do not believe it ever stopped anyone from completing the walk. Now there is just a jumble of loose rock and mud.

I hope, in each case, the change was a natural one but fear that the first may have been an act of vandalism and the second a well meant, but misguided, attempt to improve the path.


Near the top of the path we briefly enter the Beckstones Plantation, part of the Whinlatter Forest Park, before seeing a stile on our right and an open path leading towards the Barf summit.

We need to cross the stile and descend to cross Beckstones Gill before reaching that open path. 		  Path to Barf summit 13:48 The path leading to the open fell-side and Barf summit


Beckstones Gill 13:50 Beckstones Gill   Barf summit cairn 14:08 Barf summit cairn with Bassenthwaite Lake and Binsey


The author with Derwentwater beyond 14:09 The author on Barf with Derwentwater beyond   Barf summit is at height 468m.

There is a clear footpath between Barf and Lord's Seat, height 552m, but the ground is marshy at the best of times. Having walked some distance from Barf, I turned around and took a photograph looking back. The sunlight on Barf and the threatening sky made for a dramatic picture.

The heavy shower that followed made matters even wetter than normal and I did not linger at Lord's Seat but re-entered the Whinlatter Forest Park and took a photograph of Lord's Seat from there.

At a 'T' junction of paths I turned left and went back towards the Beckstones Plantation.


Looking back at Barf 14:20 Looking back at Barf


Lord's Seat from Whinlatter Forest Park 14:44 Lord's Seat from the Whinlatter Forest Park   Back in the Beckstones Plantation I kept to the forest tracks and descended as far as Comb Gill, which I then followed down to Thornthwaite Village.

This footpath had been officially closed for a year or more due to a landslide, although I understand the locals continued to use it with care. It is now fully re-opened as an easy footpath with good walking.


The final part of the walk was back along the country road to Powter How. Fortunately, the road is fairly quiet with through traffic on the adjacent A66 trunk road.

Approaching Powter How, I was able to take a photograph showing the Bishop Rock high on the fell-side. It now seems that my previous photograph was taken from an unfortunate direction because the Bishop still has his head after all. Well, I am pleased about that.

I was back in the car park at 16:40 so the walk took me about four hours. 		  Bishop Rock from the road 16:30 Bishop Rock from the road approaching Powter How


Editor: Peter J. Cosker   peter@the2coskers.com   other Lake District walks   Updated: 26/11/2016